Frequently asked questions

Not yet. Work Space is at the concept and iPhone UI design stage. There is no downloadable app or confirmed launch date. You can register your interest.

The first version focuses on personal organization and work-life boundaries. AI and team collaboration are outside the initial scope.

No. The planned feature manages Work Space’s own reminders. It will not control other apps or automatically switch the system Focus mode.

No. The initial plan uses local data and deliberate exports. Cloud backup, sync and security details will be announced after implementation and validation.

Built-in phrases work offline. Arbitrary text translation requires a supported iOS version and installed Apple translation language packs. Speech recognition depends on your device, language and connectivity.

It is in preparation. Pre-register to be notified when it launches.

No account is required. Confirm allergy, medical and emergency information with a professional.

It's the fourth tab in the app. Each of your habits becomes a house on the island. The more you check in, the higher its level, and lamp posts, benches and wells slowly appear. The island only shows your progress and doesn't affect the habits themselves.

No. Your habits and completion records are stored on your device. The app has no backend of its own and no cloud sync.

No. Pro is a non-consumable one-time purchase, and you can restore it under the same Apple Account. The actual price is shown on the App Store purchase confirmation screen.

Restoring purchases only restores Pro. It doesn't bring back habit records. There's no built-in cross-device sync right now; device backup and transfer depend on your iOS settings.

Up to 5 habits, basic island themes and a single-habit widget. Pro adds unlimited habits, all island themes, multi-habit widgets, a yearly heatmap and alternate app icons.

No. Compression, conversion and PDF creation all happen on your iPhone, and no files are uploaded.

Yes. Choose 500KB, 1MB, 2MB or enter your own. The app finds the highest quality that stays under the target. If it truly can't get there, it tells you, and you can reduce the dimensions or adjust the target.

It uses 1000-based units (2MB = 2,000,000 bytes) and leaves about a 2% buffer, so the result is also under a 1024-based 2MB. Still, we recommend testing an upload on the actual site before you submit.

No. There's no sign-up, no ads and no tracking, and everything is processed on your iPhone.

You get 5 free uses, then a one-time NT$60 purchase unlocks it for good. No subscription. Saving to the vault doesn't count as a use.

That Compress option packs the file into a ZIP archive. The recipient has to unzip it before seeing the PDF, and most sites that take PDF uploads don't accept ZIP files, so it can't replace PDF compression. (From the guide "How to compress a large PDF on your phone")

Text takes very little space, so large files are usually photos and scanned pages. If a mostly-text PDF is still large, it may contain many embedded fonts or images, and there is little room to shrink it. (From the guide "How to compress a large PDF on your phone")

It depends on the method. If only the images inside the PDF are shrunk, the text stays selectable. If each page is converted to an image and then compressed, the text becomes part of the picture and can't be selected or searched. How clear it looks depends on how hard it was compressed, so zoom in and check afterwards. (From the guide "How to compress a large PDF on your phone")

Yes, but your file is uploaded to their server for processing. For contracts, ID documents and transcripts, read the site's privacy policy first or use a method that works on your phone. (From the guide "How to compress a large PDF on your phone")

A normal headshot or ID photo is usually still clear at 500KB, because the image is simple and doesn't need many pixels. Zoom in after compressing to check the face is clear. When a photo is rejected, it is often because of format, pixel dimensions or background, not necessarily the 500KB limit. (From the guide "How to shrink an application photo to under 500KB on your phone")

The site might count KB as 1000 or 1024 bytes, so values right at the limit are risky. Leave some buffer, for example aim for around 450-480KB, and you won't have to worry about the counting method. (From the guide "How to shrink an application photo to under 500KB on your phone")

Some systems have both a lower and an upper limit. If the result is below the minimum, there are too few pixels or the quality is too low. Raising the compression target alone doesn't necessarily make the file bigger. Re-export with a larger pixel size or higher quality within the allowed range, then check the size falls inside the range. (From the guide "How to shrink an application photo to under 500KB on your phone")

Most application systems accept only JPG (sometimes PNG too). The safest approach is to convert to JPG first, then compress to under 500KB. (From the guide "How to shrink an application photo to under 500KB on your phone")

Dividing both 600 and 800 by 200 gives 3:4, a portrait photo. It is 3 wide by 4 tall, the same ratio as a portrait photo taken on iPhone. (From the guide "How to crop a photo to exactly 600×800 without distorting it")

If you scale it in a way that forces a non-proportional resize, the image is stretched or squashed and faces look wider or thinner. Proportional scaling doesn't distort, so crop to the same ratio first and then scale. (From the guide "How to crop a photo to exactly 600×800 without distorting it")

Technically yes, but enlarging doesn't add detail and the result looks blurrier. Crop from the original photo when you can, and retake the photo if there aren't enough pixels. (From the guide "How to crop a photo to exactly 600×800 without distorting it")

The default is 4:3 (3:4 in portrait), so for a 3:4 spec such as 600×800 you usually only need to adjust the framing, without cropping much. (From the guide "How to crop a photo to exactly 600×800 without distorting it")

Lossless compression (such as PNG) decompresses to exactly the original image. It usually saves little on photos but a lot on screenshots and icons with large areas of one color. Lossy compression (such as JPEG and HEIC) throws away detail the eye doesn't easily notice in exchange for a much smaller file. (From the guide "How does image compression work? Why do compressed images get blurry?")

No. Information thrown away by lossy compression doesn't come back, and enlarging can't restore detail. Saving again in a lossy format can add another layer of distortion, so keep the original. (From the guide "How does image compression work? Why do compressed images get blurry?")

PNG is a lossless format that stores every pixel in full, and phone screenshots have many pixels, so they get big. If you just need to upload it, converting to JPEG usually makes it much smaller. (From the guide "How does image compression work? Why do compressed images get blurry?")

There's no fixed answer, because it depends on the photo. For an ordinary photo, the difference is hard to see at medium to high quality, and blocky patches only appear clearly at very low settings. A tool that can set a target size searches for the highest usable quality within the target. (From the guide "How does image compression work? Why do compressed images get blurry?")

No. Most Compatible only affects photos and videos you take from now on. HEIC photos that already exist have to be converted separately. (From the guide "How to convert HEIC photos to JPG on iPhone")

If you export at the original size (keeping all pixels), ordinary photos usually look the same. But JPG is also a lossy format, and the file is generally larger than the HEIC. The brightness effect of HDR photos may differ. (From the guide "How to convert HEIC photos to JPG on iPhone")

Not necessarily. According to Apple, if the receiving device doesn't support HEIF, the system may automatically share it as JPEG instead. Whether it gets converted when you upload to a website depends on the browser and the site, so the safest approach is to convert it first. (From the guide "How to convert HEIC photos to JPG on iPhone")

iPhone shoots in HEIC by default, and many registration, school and government websites only accept JPG or PNG, so they reject it. Convert to JPG and upload again. (From the guide "How to convert HEIC photos to JPG on iPhone")

There is some quality loss, but for an ordinary phone photo, compressing to 2MB usually isn't noticeable. The common approach is to lower the JPEG quality first and only reduce the dimensions if that isn't enough. PassSize works in the same order: it first finds the highest usable quality that stays within the target, and only shrinks the dimensions if the file is still too big. After compressing, zoom in and check faces and text. (From the guide "How to compress an iPhone photo to under 2MB")

The simpler the image content (for example an ID photo with a white background, or a document), the smaller the file at the same quality. Compression finds the highest usable quality that stays within the target, so the result is sometimes well below the target. That's normal. (From the guide "How to compress an iPhone photo to under 2MB")

Both are in use. The safe approach is to count in units of 1000 (2MB = 2,000,000 bytes), since the result is then also under a 1024-based 2MB and you won't be rejected on size because of how it's counted. You still need to check format, dimensions and other rules separately. PassSize counts in units of 1000 and also leaves about a 2% buffer. (From the guide "How to compress an iPhone photo to under 2MB")

Many sign-up, government and school websites accept only JPG or PNG. If you get a format error when uploading, convert the photo to JPG first and then compress it. (From the guide "How to compress an iPhone photo to under 2MB")

Most online compression sites need to upload your photo to their server, and emailing it to yourself also passes through a mail server. Crop, Preview, Shortcuts and PassSize all process on your phone. For files like ID photos and contracts, we recommend processing locally to reduce what you hand to third parties. (From the guide "How to compress an iPhone photo to under 2MB")

It usually follows the order the files appear in the Files app. The safest approach is to name the photos in order (01, 02, 03), sort by name, then create the PDF, and open it to check once it's done. (From the guide "How to combine multiple photos into one PDF on iPhone")

Phone photos in a PDF can be several MB per page. You can shrink the photos before combining, or use a tool that compresses a PDF to a set size. See "How to compress a PDF that's too large on iPhone". (From the guide "How to combine multiple photos into one PDF on iPhone")

Create PDF in the Files app is mainly for images. PassSize can combine photos and PDFs into one file and lets you drag to reorder. (From the guide "How to combine multiple photos into one PDF on iPhone")

Yes. The Preview app on iOS 26 can lock a PDF, and PassSize can also add an open password when combining photos into a PDF. (From the guide "How to combine multiple photos into one PDF on iPhone")

Open the scanned document in Notes, tap Share, and choose Save to Files to save it as a PDF. You can also share it directly with someone. (From the guide "How to scan a paper document into a PDF on iPhone")

Scanning automatically detects the paper's edges, straightens a skewed angle and crops out the desk background, so the result looks more like a photocopy and is a PDF right away. (From the guide "How to scan a paper document into a PDF on iPhone")

Each scanned page is an image, so it grows quickly with more pages. You can delete pages you don't need, or compress the PDF to a set size. (From the guide "How to scan a paper document into a PDF on iPhone")

Yes, the scanning itself happens on your phone. But if you save the scan to iCloud Drive, or iCloud sync is on for Notes, the file syncs to iCloud. If you don't want it in the cloud, save it to On My iPhone. After scanning, check that the text is clear and all four corners are included. (From the guide "How to scan a paper document into a PDF on iPhone")

The built-in actions have no "set target size" option, only pixel width and JPEG quality. The approach is to run it once with a set of values, check the size, and lower the width or quality again if it's over. (From the guide "How to batch-shrink photos and convert to JPG with an iPhone Shortcut (no app needed)")

Actions like Resize Image and Convert Image run on the iPhone. As long as your shortcut has no upload or send actions, your photos aren't sent anywhere. (From the guide "How to batch-shrink photos and convert to JPG with an iPhone Shortcut (no app needed)")

Turn on "Show in Share Sheet" in the shortcut's Details. Once it's on, scroll down in the Share Sheet and you'll find it. (From the guide "How to batch-shrink photos and convert to JPG with an iPhone Shortcut (no app needed)")

For photos you're submitting, we recommend turning it off, so details like where it was taken and the device don't go out with the file, and the file is slightly smaller. Turn it on only if you want to keep things like the capture date. (From the guide "How to batch-shrink photos and convert to JPG with an iPhone Shortcut (no app needed)")

Apple says iOS 11 and later, and Mac OS X Snow Leopard and later, report storage capacity in decimal, meaning 1MB = 1,000,000 bytes. (From the guide "Is 1MB 1000KB or 1024KB? How upload size limits are counted")

Windows File Explorer counts in 1024s but labels the result KB and MB, so the same file looks a bit smaller on Windows than on a Mac or iPhone. (From the guide "Is 1MB 1000KB or 1024KB? How upload size limits are counted")

Not necessarily. If that 1.99MB was shown using 1024-based counting, it is actually over 2,000,000 bytes, and a site that checks in 1000s will reject it. Leaving about 5% of buffer is safer. (From the guide "Is 1MB 1000KB or 1024KB? How upload size limits are counted")

They are the official names the international standard gives to binary units: 1KiB = 1024 bytes and 1MiB = 1024KiB. They exist to tell binary apart from decimal KB and MB, but many apps and websites don't use them strictly. (From the guide "Is 1MB 1000KB or 1024KB? How upload size limits are counted")

Not always. Many state in their privacy policy how long after processing they delete files, but practices differ, so reading the policy before you use one is the most reliable check. (From the guide "Is it safe to upload ID photos to online compression sites?")

It means they promise not to keep files long term, so the risk is lower. But the file still leaves your phone and passes through their server. That is usually fine for ordinary photos; for IDs and contracts, processing on your device is still the better choice. (From the guide "Is it safe to upload ID photos to online compression sites?")

Look for explicit wording like "processed on device" or "files are not uploaded" in its official description or privacy policy. Most web tools need to upload files; a few process them inside the browser, but you can only be sure from what they say. (From the guide "Is it safe to upload ID photos to online compression sites?")

No need to panic. Check the site's privacy policy for how long files are kept and how they are deleted, and delete the file yourself if the site offers that. From now on, process sensitive documents on your phone. (From the guide "Is it safe to upload ID photos to online compression sites?")

Mainly to make sure the photo is sharp enough to identify a face or to print. A file that is too small usually has too few pixels or too much compression, so a minimum size works as a simple quality threshold. (From the guide "Photo must be 300KB to 500KB but your file is too small? What to do")

The file gets bigger, but enlarging adds no detail. It just spreads the existing pixels apart, so the photo looks blurrier. The best fix is to go back to the original photo and export again. (From the guide "Photo must be 300KB to 500KB but your file is too small? What to do")

Usually much bigger, but most sites only accept JPG, and the file may go straight over the maximum. Unless the site accepts PNG, a higher-quality JPG is the safer choice. (From the guide "Photo must be 300KB to 500KB but your file is too small? What to do")

Messaging apps often compress photos when sending. Ask the sender to resend it as the original image or as a file, or get the original file directly. (From the guide "Photo must be 300KB to 500KB but your file is too small? What to do")

No. The DPI stored in the file (strictly speaking PPI) is only a print reference. The pixel count stays the same, so the file size barely changes. To make it smaller you have to reduce pixels or lower the compression quality. (From the guide "What does a 1200x1200 photo size mean? Pixels, DPI and file size explained")

First crop the photo to a 1:1 square, then scale it down proportionally to 1200x1200. If you skip cropping and force a portrait photo into a square, it will look stretched or squashed; proportional scaling by itself doesn't distort it. (From the guide "What does a 1200x1200 photo size mean? Pixels, DPI and file size explained")

Yes. "At least" means anything larger than 600x800 is fine. Without "at least", some systems require exactly that size, so it is best to match the rule exactly. (From the guide "What does a 1200x1200 photo size mean? Pixels, DPI and file size explained")

Not always. Sharpness also depends on focus, camera shake and compression quality. A large photo that was compressed hard can look blurrier than a smaller one with moderate compression. (From the guide "What does a 1200x1200 photo size mean? Pixels, DPI and file size explained")

Each app handles this differently and it can change between versions, so there is no single answer. The safest approach is to remove the location yourself before sending, for example by turning off Location in the iPhone share sheet. (From the guide "How to remove location data from a photo before sending it")

Yes. Turning off Location in the share sheet only affects the file you send this time. The original in your library is unchanged and still shows up on the map. (From the guide "How to remove location data from a photo before sending it")

Yes. "No Location" edits the photo's info in your library, it does not erase it permanently. Open the photo's info, tap Adjust, then choose Revert to restore the original location. (From the guide "How to remove location data from a photo before sending it")

Send the photo to yourself (to another device or a chat with yourself), then open the received copy and tap Info or swipe up. If there is no map and no place name, the iPhone cannot read a location from it, which works as a first check. For sensitive files, you can also use a tool that shows full metadata (EXIF) to confirm there is no GPS field. (From the guide "How to remove location data from a photo before sending it")

EXIF is the shooting data attached to a photo. Common fields include date and time, phone model, lens, aperture and shutter speed, and GPS location. None of it is needed when you submit a photo to a form or application, so it is generally best not to keep it. (From the guide "How to remove location data from a photo before sending it")

Not recommended. Renaming the extension does not change the file contents, so if the site checks the actual format it will still reject it. Convert it for real with Convert Image, Preview, or a compression app. (From the guide "Photo is under 2MB and a JPG, but the site still says wrong format?")

Yes. Many upload systems show only one generic error, so pixels that are too small, the wrong aspect ratio, or a file that is too large can all appear as "format not accepted". Check again against the pixel size and ratio the site specifies. (From the guide "Photo is under 2MB and a JPG, but the site still says wrong format?")

Different systems count MB differently, and the displayed number may be rounded. The safe approach is to leave some margin, for example target 1.9MB or less. (From the guide "Photo is under 2MB and a JPG, but the site still says wrong format?")

Sometimes. Some sites have poor compatibility with the upload component in certain browsers. Switching between Safari and Chrome, or uploading from a computer, helps rule out a problem with the site itself. (From the guide "Photo is under 2MB and a JPG, but the site still says wrong format?")

HEIF (High Efficiency Image File Format) is the format itself, like a container. HEIC refers to a HEIF file whose image is encoded with HEVC, and it is also the file extension of iPhone photos. In everyday use you can treat them as the same thing. (From the guide "What is HEIC, and why do some websites reject it?")

Not necessarily. Apple says that if the receiving device does not support HEIF, the system may automatically share a JPEG instead. But when you upload to a web form, it usually does not convert for you. (From the guide "What is HEIC, and why do some websites reject it?")

Consider it if you often send photos to Windows PCs or upload to many different sites. The downside is that the same photos take more space. If you only need it occasionally, staying on High Efficiency and converting to JPG when needed is better value. (From the guide "What is HEIC, and why do some websites reject it?")

JPG is also lossy, but when you output at the original pixel size and a higher quality, ordinary photos usually show no obvious difference, though the file is often somewhat larger. The brightness effect of HDR photos may look different as a JPG. (From the guide "What is HEIC, and why do some websites reject it?")

Most online sites upload your file to their server for processing, and how long it is kept or whether it is used for anything else depends on each site's privacy policy. A few sites say they process in the browser without uploading, but that only counts if they say so clearly. For ordinary landscape photos it matters little; for sensitive files such as IDs, contracts, and medical records, use a tool that processes locally. (From the guide "Where to compress images: iPhone built-ins, websites, computers, and apps compared")

Yes. You can crop the photo, choose a smaller image size when sending through Mail (it goes through the mail server), use the Resize Image and Convert Image actions in Shortcuts, or resize and export in the Preview app from iOS 26. None of these lets you directly specify "compress to 500KB", though. (From the guide "Where to compress images: iPhone built-ins, websites, computers, and apps compared")

Yes, JPEG compression is lossy, but moderate compression is usually hard to notice by eye. Always keep the original and save the compressed file as a separate copy. (From the guide "Where to compress images: iPhone built-ins, websites, computers, and apps compared")

Shortcuts can run in batch, but you need to set it up yourself. An app that can batch process and also set a size is most direct; PassSize also supports selecting multiple photos at once. (From the guide "Where to compress images: iPhone built-ins, websites, computers, and apps compared")

You can undo in Swipee, or restore photos one by one from the delete list. After a photo is actually deleted, it goes to the system's Recently Deleted album, and you can recover it within 30 days as long as it hasn't been permanently deleted there.

Yes. Swipee browses photos by month, so you can clean up one month at a time and pick it up again later.

Photo analysis happens on your device, and your photo library isn't uploaded to any third-party AI service. When you browse iCloud Photos, Apple's Photos app may download files from iCloud.

In the upcoming version, Settings > Tutorial lets you rewatch the four-way swipe animation, photo comparison, content and people suggestions, Quick Scan and delete confirmation. The App Store update is waiting to be submitted for review.

The upcoming version adds Follow System, English or Traditional Chinese at the top of Settings. The App Store update is waiting to be submitted for review. If your system language isn't supported, English is used.

Yes. Swipee supports iPad in portrait and landscape.

Limited Access lets the app see only the photos you picked, and all other photos don't exist as far as it's concerned. Full Access lets it see your whole library. Under Limited Access, new photos you take aren't added automatically, so you have to pick them again. (From the guide "An app can only see some of your photos? How to change photo permissions on iPhone")

Usually not. Many apps use the system photo picker, which hands over only the photos you select, without opening your whole library. Choosing None or Limited Access is usually enough. (From the guide "An app can only see some of your photos? How to change photo permissions on iPhone")

The point of cleanup is to look through all your photos and find duplicates and ones you don't want. With partial access, the app can only clean up the few photos you picked and can't see photos from other months. (From the guide "An app can only see some of your photos? How to change photo permissions on iPhone")

Fully close the app and reopen it so it reloads your library, and go back to Settings to confirm the permission is really set to Full Access. (From the guide "An app can only see some of your photos? How to change photo permissions on iPhone")

Be careful, because your phone may only hold reduced-size versions. Apple's guidance is that if iCloud Photos is on, you should first download the original full-resolution photos to iPhone before importing to a PC. (From the guide "How to back up iPhone photos to a computer or external drive without paying for iCloud")

Go to Settings > Apps > Photos, scroll down to the setting for transferring to Mac or PC, and make sure it is set to Automatic rather than Keep Originals. Importing over USB can then convert to a compatible format such as JPEG. Or install a viewer on your computer that supports HEIC. (From the guide "How to back up iPhone photos to a computer or external drive without paying for iCloud")

Apple notes that external hard drives usually need external power, and USB-C models can use a powered USB hub. The drive must also have a single partition in a supported format such as APFS, exFAT or FAT32. (From the guide "How to back up iPhone photos to a computer or external drive without paying for iCloud")

Spot-check that the backup is complete and opens, and ideally keep one more copy (for example one on a computer and one on a drive). If iCloud Photos is on, deleting on your phone also deletes from iCloud and your other devices. (From the guide "How to back up iPhone photos to a computer or external drive without paying for iCloud")

Yes. In the Photos app tap Select, drag your finger horizontally across the first row of thumbnails and then slide down. Every row you pass over gets selected, and you tap the trash can once to delete them all. (From the guide "Too many photos on your iPhone? How to clean them up and delete them quickly")

Yes. Deleted photos and videos stay in Recently Deleted for 30 days and can be recovered during that time. After 30 days, or after you delete them manually from Recently Deleted, they are permanently removed and can't be recovered. (From the guide "Too many photos on your iPhone? How to clean them up and delete them quickly")

Yes. With iCloud Photos on, photos deleted on iPhone are also deleted from other devices signed in to the same Apple Account and from iCloud, so back up anything you want to keep first. (From the guide "Too many photos on your iPhone? How to clean them up and delete them quickly")

No. "Remove from Album" in an album you created only takes away the grouping, and the photo is still in your library. To actually free space you have to delete it from the library. (From the guide "Too many photos on your iPhone? How to clean them up and delete them quickly")

Swipee has Undo, and you can also restore items one by one in the list marked for deletion. The actual deletion still needs confirmation from Apple's Photos system, and deleted photos go to Recently Deleted first, where you can recover them within 30 days as long as you haven't permanently deleted them there. (From the guide "Too many photos on your iPhone? How to clean them up and delete them quickly")

According to Apple, Duplicates doesn't appear when no duplicate photos or videos are detected in your library. If you just imported a lot of photos, the system may still be organizing them in the background, so check again later. It also needs iOS 16 or later, and the location depends on your version: on iOS 26 it's under Collections > More, on iOS 18 it's under More when you scroll down from the Photos home screen, and on iOS 16 and 17 it's under Albums > Utilities. (From the guide "How to find and delete duplicate photos on iPhone")

Merging combines the highest-quality version with all the relevant data from that set of duplicates and keeps it in your library. The rest move to Recently Deleted. (From the guide "How to find and delete duplicate photos on iPhone")

Partly. The photos that were merged away move to Recently Deleted, and you can recover them within 30 days as long as they haven't been permanently deleted. But the data that was combined into the version you kept won't necessarily go back to how it was originally. (From the guide "How to find and delete duplicate photos on iPhone")

Usually not. Duplicates looks for photos that are identical, or that look the same and differ only in resolution or format. Burst shots and photos taken from slightly different angles are ones you pick yourself, or with a tool that compares photos side by side (for example Swipee's photo compare). (From the guide "How to find and delete duplicate photos on iPhone")

Deleted photos stay in Recently Deleted for 30 days and still use space during that time. If you're sure you don't need them, or they're already backed up, you can delete them permanently from Photos > Collections > Utilities > Recently Deleted. The storage number can also take a while to update. (From the guide "iPhone storage full because of photos? How to free up space")

No. The full-resolution originals are uploaded to iCloud, and when the iPhone runs low on space it keeps smaller space-saving versions and downloads the originals when needed. Your iCloud plan has to be big enough for the whole library, though, and the first upload takes time and a network connection. (From the guide "iPhone storage full because of photos? How to free up space")

No, it uses more. High Efficiency uses HEIF/HEVC, which compresses better than JPEG/H.264. Most Compatible exists for compatibility, and its files are usually larger. (From the guide "iPhone storage full because of photos? How to free up space")

Yes, but deletions sync. With iCloud Photos on, a photo you delete on your iPhone is also deleted from iCloud and your other devices. (From the guide "iPhone storage full because of photos? How to free up space")

Clearing screenshots, long videos and duplicates first is the most efficient. For the photos that need a one-by-one decision, you can use Swipee to swipe through them month by month: swipe left to mark for deletion, right to keep. (From the guide "iPhone storage full because of photos? How to free up space")

Apple says 30 days. During that time you can recover them or delete them permanently by hand. After 30 days they are permanently removed from your iPhone, iCloud, and other devices on the same Apple Account. (From the guide "Deleted lots of photos but iPhone storage didn't increase?")

Usually quickly, but the number on the iPhone Storage screen takes a while to recalculate. Leave the Settings screen, wait a moment, and come back. (From the guide "Deleted lots of photos but iPhone storage didn't increase?")

The deletion syncs. iCloud and every other device signed in to the same Apple Account with iCloud Photos on delete them too. To keep photos in the cloud and only free up phone space, use Optimize iPhone Storage instead of deleting. (From the guide "Deleted lots of photos but iPhone storage didn't increase?")

There is no button to clear it directly. It contains logs, caches, and other data managed by the system, and the system clears part of it automatically when space runs low. (From the guide "Deleted lots of photos but iPhone storage didn't increase?")

Spending 5 to 10 minutes a day or week on a small stretch is easier to keep up than an occasional big clean. You can set a routine of tidying last month's photos at the start of each month so the backlog stops piling up. (From the guide "Why does tidying your photo library never end?")

Skip it or keep it for now, and save your energy for the photos that are easy to judge. A photo you hesitate over usually has some value, so keeping it costs little; what really takes space is mostly screenshots, long videos, and duplicates. (From the guide "Why does tidying your photo library never end?")

Yes. Photos you delete on iPhone stay in Recently Deleted for 30 days, and as long as you have not permanently deleted them there, you can recover them. Swipee also lets you undo while you clean up, and you can check each item marked for deletion before it is deleted. (From the guide "Why does tidying your photo library never end?")

Start with screenshots and duplicates. Both take almost no thinking, the built-in Media Types and Duplicates albums handle them quickly, and you see results fast. (From the guide "Why does tidying your photo library never end?")

After setting up a widget in Lumee, touch and hold an empty spot on your Home Screen, tap Edit > Add Widget, search for Lumee and choose a size.

Yes. Pick a few photos you like and turn them into a photo memories widget.

It's free to download and use, and 5 styles are free. Lumee Pro is a one-time NT$120 purchase that unlocks every style and feature for good. No monthly subscription.

Yes, from iOS 18. Press and hold an empty spot on the Home Screen > Edit > Customize, and change the icons to Large. The app names disappear. (From the guide "How to customize your iPhone Home Screen")

Press and hold an empty spot on the Home Screen > Edit > Customize > Clear, then choose Light, Dark or Auto. (From the guide "How to customize your iPhone Home Screen")

Yes, from iOS 18. In Customize, choose Tinted, pick a color and saturation with the slider, or use the eyedropper to pick a color from your wallpaper. All icons and widgets are updated together. (From the guide "How to customize your iPhone Home Screen")

Yes, with Focus. Assign Home Screen pages and a Lock Screen to each Focus, and your Home Screen changes when you switch Focus. (From the guide "How to customize your iPhone Home Screen")

It's free to download and use, and 5 styles are free. Lumee Pro is a one-time NT$120 purchase that unlocks all styles and features permanently, with no monthly subscription. (From the guide "How to customize your iPhone Home Screen")

iOS 16 or later. From iOS 26, widgets can also be moved from under the time to the bottom of the Lock Screen. (From the guide "How to add widgets to your iPhone Lock Screen")

The row under the time holds up to 4 small widgets, or 2 rectangular widgets, or 1 rectangular plus 2 small ones. The date line above the time can also hold one text widget. (From the guide "How to add widgets to your iPhone Lock Screen")

Your iPhone needs to be unlocked with Face ID, Touch ID or your passcode first, but stay on the Lock Screen without swiping up. Then press and hold the screen to edit. (From the guide "How to add widgets to your iPhone Lock Screen")

Yes. Widgets are set separately for each Lock Screen, and you can link a Lock Screen to a Focus so it switches automatically when you change Focus. (From the guide "How to add widgets to your iPhone Lock Screen")

Lumee offers Lock Screen widgets for weather, countdown, step count and more. The system decides how often widgets update, so they're not always real time. (From the guide "How to add widgets to your iPhone Lock Screen")

Not directly. From iOS 17 you can add a Photos widget in the Album style, then choose an album for it to cycle through in Edit Widget. So the workaround is to create an album with only one photo and point the widget at it, or to use a widget app that lets you choose photos. (From the guide "How to put your own photos in a widget on iPhone")

The built-in widget has two styles: Featured Photos shows photos picked by the system, and from iOS 17 there's also an Album style where you choose the album. With Lumee, you pick the photos you like yourself. (From the guide "How to put your own photos in a widget on iPhone")

Press and hold the widget, tap Edit Widget to change what it shows and other options, then tap Done when you're finished. (From the guide "How to put your own photos in a widget on iPhone")

It's free to download and use, and 5 styles are free. Lumee Pro is a one-time NT$120 purchase that unlocks all styles and features permanently, with no monthly subscription. (From the guide "How to put your own photos in a widget on iPhone")

iOS decides, and it is not real time. Apple's developer documentation says a widget that is viewed often typically gets a budget of 40 to 70 updates a day, roughly one every 15 to 60 minutes, and the actual interval varies with usage. (From the guide "iPhone widget not updating, black, or photo missing? How to fix it")

While an app runs in the foreground it can ask the system to reload its widgets, so opening the app once often makes the data update right away. (From the guide "iPhone widget not updating, black, or photo missing? How to fix it")

Possibly. If the photo the widget uses was deleted from your library, or the app's photo permission was changed to None or limited, the widget can no longer read that photo. Check that the photo is still in your library, then check the permission. (From the guide "iPhone widget not updating, black, or photo missing? How to fix it")

Apple says Low Power Mode turns off background activity such as Background App Refresh. Widgets that rely on background data updates may therefore update more slowly. (From the guide "iPhone widget not updating, black, or photo missing? How to fix it")

It is a one-time NT$90 paid download with every feature included. There are no in-app purchases, subscriptions or ads. The price shown in the App Store applies.

Yes. Choose one from your library or add it through another app’s Share sheet. If only a link is shared, save the image and import it first.

Example and lesson images are AI illustrations for photography practice. Your result depends on lighting, distance and the phone you use.

No. They only appear in the viewfinder to help align your shot, and are excluded from the exported photo.

Your photos, videos, references, favorites and edit settings are never uploaded. The app checks for and downloads example updates; if a download fails, it keeps using the content already on your device.

Download it again from your App Store purchases with the Apple Account used for the original purchase. All features are included without an in-app restore or unlock.

No. The grid and level only show on the camera screen, and the photos and videos you take don't contain those lines. (From the guide "How to turn on the iPhone camera grid and level")

Since iOS 17, Level is a separate switch that you turn on in Settings > Camera. Also, the level line usually appears only when the phone is close to horizontal. You won't see it when the phone is held very tilted, so hold it roughly flat first. (From the guide "How to turn on the iPhone camera grid and level")

The built-in option is a single 3x3 grid. It can't be changed to diagonals, the golden ratio or other guide lines. For other styles you need a third-party camera app. (From the guide "How to turn on the iPhone camera grid and level")

In the Photos app, open Edit and use the straighten control in the crop tool to fix the horizon. You can also adjust vertical and horizontal perspective. Straightening crops off a bit of the edge, so leave some room when you shoot. (From the guide "How to turn on the iPhone camera grid and level")

Start with the rule of thirds, since it fits the most scenes. Then practice upper/lower-third horizons and center symmetry, and you can handle most portraits, landscapes and architecture shots. (From the guide "Phone photo composition: 12 types explained")

Yes, and it's common. For example, use a doorway as a foreground frame and place the person on a thirds line, or use a road as a leading line toward a subject in the center. (From the guide "Phone photo composition: 12 types explained")

For a single dish, use the rule of thirds or center symmetry. For three or more dishes, arrange them in a triangle, which looks livelier than a straight line. (From the guide "Phone photo composition: 12 types explained")

Generally try the upper or lower third first, so either the sky or the ground is the star. For symmetrical scenes like a lake reflection, putting the shoreline in the exact middle often looks great, and you can also center it on purpose for a calm, minimal feel. (From the guide "Phone photo composition: 12 types explained")

No. Near an intersection is enough. The point is to move the subject away from the exact center and leave room in the direction it is looking or moving. (From the guide "How to use the rule of thirds in phone photos (people and landscapes)")

For half-body shots or close-ups, eyes near the upper horizontal line look most natural. For full-body shots, keep the head near the upper third and don't crop off the feet. (From the guide "How to use the rule of thirds in phone photos (people and landscapes)")

Whichever part is more interesting. For clouds or a sunset, put the horizon on the lower third. For a flower field, lake or street scene, put it on the upper third. (From the guide "How to use the rule of thirds in phone photos (people and landscapes)")

For symmetrical buildings, reflections, corridors, front-facing close-ups, or when you want a stable feel, centering the subject usually looks better. The rule of thirds is a starting point, not a rule. (From the guide "How to use the rule of thirds in phone photos (people and landscapes)")

Go to Settings > Camera and turn on Grid, and the 3x3 grid appears in the camera. From iOS 17, the same page also has a separate Level toggle. (From the guide "How to use the rule of thirds in phone photos (people and landscapes)")

The most common reason is a different shooting distance and zoom. Shooting close at 0.5x and shooting from farther back at 2x can give the same subject size, but because you are standing at different distances, the background and the proportions of the face differ a lot. (From the guide "How to take a photo that matches a reference photo from the internet")

Look at the background. A very wide background, edge lines stretching outward and nearby things looking especially big usually mean a wide lens up close. A background that looks big and "pulled in" usually means the photographer stood farther back and zoomed to 2x or more. (From the guide "How to take a photo that matches a reference photo from the internet")

Use the shadow direction and length to work out where the light comes from and how high the sun is. Long, soft shadows are usually early morning or late afternoon; short, hard shadows are usually midday. Shoot at a similar time of day, from the same light direction. (From the guide "How to take a photo that matches a reference photo from the internet")

No. The reference is only overlaid on the viewfinder to help you line up, and the photo you take doesn't contain it. (From the guide "How to take a photo that matches a reference photo from the internet")

Yes, you can send it into SamePhoto from Instagram and similar apps through the share sheet as a shooting reference. If what you share is a link, save the image to your library first and import it. The reference stays on your phone and is for practicing composition, so don't publish someone else's photo as your own work. (From the guide "How to take a photo that matches a reference photo from the internet")

No. Photos, videos and your creations are processed and stored on your device.

Yes, it supports both iPhone and iPad.

Real Polaroid paper has extra room along the bottom edge for the developing chemicals, so the bottom border is wide, and it's also handy for handwriting a date or note. Keeping that proportion in a digital version makes it look more authentic. (From the guide "How to make a Polaroid-style photo collage on iPhone")

Editing in the Photos app is mainly crop, color adjustment and filters. It has no collage layouts, so for a Polaroid collage you need a collage app. (From the guide "How to make a Polaroid-style photo collage on iPhone")

Use 9:16 for Stories. For posts, 4:5 takes up more room in the feed, and 1:1 suits a neat grid layout. (From the guide "How to make a Polaroid-style photo collage on iPhone")

3 to 6 photos are the easiest for a casual scattered look; for a neat grid you can use 4 or 9. With too many, each photo gets tiny and the white frames lose their feel. (From the guide "How to make a Polaroid-style photo collage on iPhone")

Yes. While a Memory plays, tap the screen to bring up the menu, use Manage Photos to add or remove photos, and touch and hold a photo to drag it into a new order. (From the guide "How to turn travel photos into a memory video on iPhone")

An iPhone that supports Apple Intelligence with the feature turned on; not every model can use it. Apple says it currently supports languages including Traditional Chinese, and some features may be unavailable depending on language or region. (From the guide "How to turn travel photos into a memory video on iPhone")

You can choose from the Memory soundtracks or songs Apple Music suggests, and Apple Music subscribers can also search their own library. Note that copyrighted songs may be muted or restricted when uploaded to social platforms. (From the guide "How to turn travel photos into a memory video on iPhone")

When you need a fixed 9:16 vertical ratio, an app that lets you set the output ratio is more convenient. For example, Picsy can export MP4 files directly in 9:16, 4:5, or 1:1. (From the guide "How to turn travel photos into a memory video on iPhone")

According to Apple, Clips is no longer updated and has been removed from the App Store, so new users cannot download it. For video editing, use iMovie or another video app. (From the guide "How to turn travel photos into a memory video on iPhone")

Open the job in your browser or a job app, tap Share and choose Job Pocket, or paste the URL into the app. It works with 104 Job Bank, LinkedIn, Cake, Yourator, 1111 Job Bank and Greenhouse. You can also pick a job in the Discover tab and tap Save.

They come from the public job pages of about 80 well-known companies on Greenhouse, Lever and Ashby, and only openings posted in the past 14 days are shown. Company details like founding year, headquarters and size come from Wikidata and Wikipedia. Job Pocket doesn't apply on your behalf, so go to the original job page to apply.

Free lets you analyze 25 jobs per calendar month (shared with resume import), write 3 cover letters and try one 2-question mock interview. Pro gives you 200 analyses a month, 200 cover letters and 8 full mock interviews (about 15 to 20 minutes and 5 to 8 questions each). The limits shown in the app are the ones that apply.

NT$180 per month or NT$1,490 per year. The actual price is shown on the purchase confirmation screen.

Pick an interviewer (Evan, Kevin, Guoyu or Anna). They ask a question and you answer out loud, one question per turn. You can choose an interviewer view or a text chat, with live captions while you speak. When it ends, you get a written report with feedback and scores for each question.

Jobs, resume fields, cover letters, interview records and reports are stored on your phone. When you use analysis, cover letters, interview tips or the mock interview, the necessary content is sent to an AI service for processing. The app explains the purpose and asks for your consent first. These features are only available to users aged 18 and over. See the privacy policy for details.

Not completely. AI is great for lots of repetition and tidying up your answer structure. A real person gives you live pressure, real judgment from inside your industry, and feedback on body language. Use both. (From the guide "Does AI mock interview practice actually help? How to use AI to prepare for interviews")

We don't recommend it. A suggested answer is only a structure to borrow. Replace the content with your own real experience and numbers, otherwise a single follow-up question from the interviewer can expose it. (From the guide "Does AI mock interview practice actually help? How to use AI to prepare for interviews")

Check what data is sent and what it is used for. You don't need to give an AI the phone number, email, address or national ID number on your resume, and you should avoid confidential company information or a former employer's internal figures. (From the guide "Does AI mock interview practice actually help? How to use AI to prepare for interviews")

There's no fixed number. A practical goal is that you can answer the common questions in 1–2 minutes with a clear structure and without reading a script, and that the questions you did badly on last time have improved. (From the guide "Does AI mock interview practice actually help? How to use AI to prepare for interviews")

The free plan includes one 2-question voice mock interview each calendar month. Pro includes 8 full mock interviews per month (about 15–20 minutes and 5–8 questions each) for NT$180 per month or NT$1,490 per year. The actual price is shown on the App Store purchase screen. (From the guide "Does AI mock interview practice actually help? How to use AI to prepare for interviews")

If no length is given, aim for about 1 minute, with a draft of roughly 250-300 words, and time yourself at your own speaking pace. If the interviewer says "introduce yourself in 3 minutes", add one or two more examples to the past-experience part. (From the guide "How to prepare an interview self-introduction: a 1-minute example and structure")

Yes, but in one sentence, and ideally related to the job, such as writing technical articles or running a community. Put hobbies unrelated to the role at the end or leave them out. (From the guide "How to prepare an interview self-introduction: a 1-minute example and structure")

Use internships, projects, clubs, part-time jobs or competitions for the "past" part. Pick the one or two most relevant to the job and say what you did and what came of it. (From the guide "How to prepare an interview self-introduction: a 1-minute example and structure")

We recommend remembering the structure and keywords instead of memorizing word for word. If you remember the main point and numbers for each of the three parts, it sounds more natural and you can pick up again if interrupted. (From the guide "How to prepare an interview self-introduction: a 1-minute example and structure")

Yes. The Present-Past-Future structure common in English interviews is your current role, relevant past experience, and why you want this job, the same as the three-part structure here. (From the guide "How to prepare an interview self-introduction: a 1-minute example and structure")

Yes. What matters is one row per job, fixed status options, and a weekly update. The downside of a spreadsheet is copying job content by hand; if you only save the link and not the content, you cannot see the original requirements once the posting comes down. (From the guide "How to track job applications and openings when applying to many companies")

There is no standard, but a common approach is to ask politely once if you hear nothing after 1 to 2 weeks. After an interview, send a thank-you note the same day or the next, and ask roughly when you will hear back. (From the guide "How to track job applications and openings when applying to many companies")

Postings often come down after the deadline or once the role is filled, so by interview time you can no longer see the original duties and requirements. Saving the key points first gives you something to prepare from. (From the guide "How to track job applications and openings when applying to many companies")

The basic features need no sign-up. The free plan includes 25 job analyses per calendar month (shared with resume organizing), 3 cover letters, and one 2-question mock interview trial. (From the guide "How to track job applications and openings when applying to many companies")

No. Recognition, text extraction and the search index all run on your iPhone, and PicSeek doesn't send photos to a server. When it looks up place names, a photo's approximate coordinates are handed to Apple's maps service to be turned into a place name.

It depends on how many photos you have. PicSeek works from newest to oldest and keeps going while your iPhone is charging and idle. You can start searching the part that's done at any time.

The free version can index and search up to 1,000 photos. For more, upgrade to Personal (20,000 photos), Plus (50,000) or Max (100,000).

Add them to the "PicSeek Do Not Scan" album that PicSeek creates, and they'll be skipped.

All three plans are auto-renewing once a year, billed by Apple. You can cancel anytime in iOS Settings > your name > Subscriptions.